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Fragrance talk

Captivating Notes Between Fragrances

A few days ago, I was shopping in a perfume store. In particular, I was searching for Scorpio Red aftershave as I was very fond of the original release.

What amazed me was that the smell of Red was somewhat different, but it triggered memories from my past. It suddenly brought me back to incidents in the early ’90s with aromatic flashes of a green bottled scent that wowed me.

Scorpio Red beside a lime, mint and wood.

I felt instant similarities with this Red perfume. It combines the new composition of Red with a return of an older scent profile that I couldn’t quite put my nose on. I spent the first and second day smelling the scent and just collecting my thoughts. 

However, on the third day, whilst I was inhaling Scorpio Red, a memory of golden colour swept my mind. It signalled a recollection of something that resembled Green Alabaster.

I gave a small smile and whispered “Tsar” to myself. The perfume was launched by Van Cleef and Arpels who are known for their luxury jewellery. 

I began to experiment with the two scents, Red and Tsar, in which I found similarities in the ingredients. I was able to find 10 similar chemical elements between the two fragrances. 

Tsar by Van Cleef and Arpels with a man beside the bottle

These ingredients are special and well known for being a standard combination in Chypre scents. These scents project Iris roots and Violet flowers. In addition to these combinations, the compounds make a velvety texture that is granular at the same time. 

In addition, the important compound cis-3-Hexen-1-ol gives off an aroma that is found in a lot of green scents and is widely used in perfumery. 

Back to talking about the first compound that stumped me, which is Alpha Isomethyl Ionone. This compound is the most important sanitary chemical compound that was used in these two perfumes to give the smell of iris roots or violet flowers, and it also bears several other names.



Nom chimique: 3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl)-3-buten-2-one; methyl-gamma-ionone; gamma-Methylionone

N° EINECS/ELINCS : 204-846-3

It is so fun to explore the beauty of perfumes and their ability to share the same spirit with other scents. Especially when they both induce memories of aromatic scenes of the past. 

Chemical compound of a fragrance
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