If you are someone who loves fragrances with a prominent use of myrrh, Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is a shining example of a perfume featuring this beloved resin.
This amazing fragrance nosed by Francois Demachy found itself on the world stage in 2012 as a flanker to the successful Eau Sauvage, which was released all the way back in 1966. The original version was more focused on a citric, fresh profile, whereas the parfum edition took the citruses and melded them with a resinous, earthy base. The notes listed are bergamot, myrrh, and vetiver, although another site lists bergamot, citron, petigrain, lavender, hedione, myrrh, patchouli, and oakmoss.
Just like the original, the opening is bursting with hesperidic tones dancing off your skin. It’s very fresh and akin to the aroma of a lime. In the background is a faintly shimmering woody hue thanks to the lavender and vetiver. The bright, citric opening, paired with the woody base, gradually recedes and mellows out as some resinous facets start to peek through the texture. It is a little bit earthy, but warm and almost syrupy due to a somewhat underlying sweetness. There is also a powdery spiciness pervading this accord, probably originating from the lavender.
This suggestive spicy allusion slowly dies away as Eau Sauvage continues to develop upon its sweet, resinous core, yet this sweet quality never becomes excessive or cloying. There seems to be a slightly bitter aspect, somewhat greenish, that keeps it in check all the way into the dry down. Maybe this is due to the presence of oakmoss, but petitgrain also has a certain bitterness to it.
About 4 hours into the wearing experience, Eau Sauvage finally enters the dry down phase, where the myrrh emerges in all its glory, with its enigmatic earthiness highlighted by a rich use of vetiver, and the resinous, balsamic facets rounded out through hints of patchouli. Underneath all this is a subtle verdancy, but overall, at this point, Eau Sauvage exudes an alluring, exotic warmth, wrapping you in a cozy scent bubble. It is a classy, masculine masterpiece that starts out like a fougere, but then transitions into a more chypre-like composition that lasts all day, making it a perfect choice for any time of the year.
Unfortunately, the 2012 formulation was discontinued in 2017, when an updated version of Eau Sauvage Parfum debuted. This might have been because of a difficulty in procuring some materials for the original composition. Still, one hopes that the 2012 formulation might make a return. It certainly is a masterpiece that will forever remain in the annals of perfumery.