Last year, Hermes launched the original H24 Eau de Toilette that, to me personally, was quite lackluster. It certainly garnered a lot of hype since the brand spent quite a few years without introducing a new designer level male oriented fragrance line. Everyone was pretty much laser focused on what Hermes was about to release, and the feedback was overall favorable, albeit not entirely homogenous.
I do give them the recognition of trying something new, instead of the 37438th ambroxan/woods, blue-type kind of scent that every brand and their pet have been releasing as of late. Nevertheless, it was clearly a calculated risk, and instead of a full-on launch, it seemed more like they were testing the waters on that “new” scent profile.
As expected, since it was positively received, it was about time for the actual release in Eau de Parfum form! More than just an increase in concentration, the Eau de Parfum version is a restructured image of the original, built upon its foundations.
The opening feels slightly green and spicy, bordering on floral for a few minutes. Then, it becomes more rounded, and slightly sweeter. It seems quite herbal for a while, that I suppose it’s the presence of clary sage. Though, personally, I can’t really distinguish it from the sclarene, but it’s probably a mix of the two.
After some time it becomes a little woodier, with an ozonic touch, and seemingly a bit floral once more. The original Eau de Toilette developed into an ozonic state where it reminded me of the scent of water vapor coming off a steaming clothing iron. It was interesting, in a way, but easily dissipated into nothingness after some time. It also carried a metallic vibe at some point, which seems much less prominent in this new version.
As H24 Eau de Parfum progresses and settles in the dry down, it remains herbal, slightly woody and ozonic, with an oak moss note that becomes progressively more evident. Still, it feels very much like a modern and streamlined oak moss, and not the yesteryear, powerhouse oak moss you may think of (insert obligatory IFRA comment here).
The end result is a scent that may evoke the original Eau de Toilette in passing, but ultimately redefines itself into a new existence. This profile is somewhat naturalistic, while also becoming borderline artistic and conceptual. It behaves in a way that feels gentlemanly, but outside of commonalities. A foot in the classic headspace while the other is dashing into new ventures. It struck an appropriate balance between abstract and concrete, surprising and familiar, quirky and conventional.
Overall, I’m much fonder of this Eau de Parfum than the original, in case that wasn’t clear enough. It’s a slightly bold offering from an established house, to which I definitely wish success, especially if it combo-breaks the recent clone rush down in the designer market!
It’s pretty versatile, in my opinion, despite not being the prototypical, mass-appeal scent. It clocked in to a moderate performance and sillage from my experience. It’s also the kind of scent that’s pretty much wearable the whole year round. Despite its aromatic and herbal inclinations towards the masculine side of things, I wouldn’t rule it out for the female audience. I’m fairly certain there will be some ladies out there who will enjoy and rock this scent without any trouble!
In conclusion, H24 Eau de Parfum is a great scent, built upon the initial alpha release. It manages to fulfill the blueprint laid out by the Eau de Toilette, reworking its innards into a functional scent that breaks off with the standard practices. Hermes proves you can be original in the designer space without completely sacrificing appeal and wearability.
Now, let’s hope that the other big brands follow through in the pursuit of new lines, with their own identities instead of just trying to reproduce the actual scent profile. We all need more originality, not additional versions of the same product!
I recommend that you give this scent a try if your curiosity is tickled after reading this review! Spray it on your skin, suspend your expectations, let it breathe for a while, and hopefully you’ll find another scent to deeply enjoy.