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Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron Review: When Saffron Shines on

It’s a bright, chilly, and sunny winter day in Northern Greece. A breeze from the sea brings the salty air that softly blows on my skin. I’m catching a spicy aroma whiffing from a spice shop selling the highest quality Saffron. I approach the shop and I took a pinch of local Saffron grandly displayed. Northern Greek Saffron is considered to be the highest quality in the world. It gives off a deep yet hazy, bright yet smoky, savoury yet sweet odour, with nuances of contrasting honey and metal. All of these combined give off pretty much the sensation that the newest launch of Matiere Premiere, Crystal Saffron manages to pull off.

Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron Review
Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron Review

I always get excited whenever Matiere Premiere launches a new perfume. I’m eagerly looking forward to what the house perfumer, Aurelien Guichard, has to offer. With the eleventh release by the house, he introduces fans to the exoticism of a legendary spice by building a photorealistic composition. Saffron is usually a top note in perfumery, but with this release, Aurelien is trying to push boundaries and create an accord that illustrates the purity and delicate nuances of the main raw material. Hence, we have a crystal clear interpretation of Saffron from the beginning to the end of the perfume’s lifetime.

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Crystal Saffron Review

Crystal Saffron has a very simple note breakdown. It includes Musk Habanolide, Saffron from Greece, Ambroxan and Incense from Somalia. However, that’s not all that I could experience; it feels like Aurelien created an olfactory illusion and takes us on a journey to the setting I just described in the intro. A bright opening of clean, airy yet sensual Musk Habanolide mingles with the dry, savoury and slightly leathery Saffron. It feels crisp and warm at the same time, which is very intriguing. It triggers a scene in which lies the Saffron field and the flower harvest in the early morning hours.

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The opening settles relatively fast, revealing a carnal side of the core. Saffron now feels much smokier, yet sweeter, as a result of the heart note intersecting with the Ambery Incense accord. The Somalian Incense comes off the same way as it comes off another fragrance, Encens Suave, but remains as a supportive note for the powerful Saffron. To balance out the carnal and deep facets, Ambroxan gives a really fresh yet salty and musky edge.

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Now, for the question of the hour, whenever a composition has Saffron as its core, does it smell like Baccarat Rouge 540 from Maison Francis Kurkdjian? Well, it’s like making the bold claim that all Saffron-dominated perfumes are the same, which is not the case at all! Therefore, the answer is clearly ‘NO’ and ‘not even close.’ Crystal Saffron is a more experimental, photorealistic, natural, and well-rounded creation that I haven’t encountered before. The Saffron note is there all the time, or that’s what the perfumer wants you to believe, by combining the compliment notes to the core that lasts until the end of scent’s lifetime.

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Another question which I find futile is the question of Crystal Saffron’s performance. Like any other creation from the brand, the performance of Crystal Saffron is no exception. In fact, it’s one of the most potent and intensely projecting among the rest of its peers due to a high amount of Ambroxan in it. The texture is, on the other hand, more airy due to the crystal clean Musk accord. Therefore, it doesn’t result in cloying despite the projecting sillage. The duration of its lifetime is also extraordinary, taking up to 9 to 12 hours. Moreover, on clothes, it lasts for a week. It is safe to say that I can smell it whenever I walk past the laundry basket.

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There’s a distinctive DNA of the house that you can sense in this latest creation. It boils down to these specific house fragrantic traits which are the sweet ambery smokiness from Encens Suave, the crystal clear brightness of Parisian Musc, the smoky, somehow leathery and woodsy nuances of Birch and finally the leather accord from Falcon Leather and a little trace of earthy and green Oud Seven lurking in the background. All of these past releases are made by the same perfumer, so it makes perfect sense that they would share the same components.

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Overall, this is a very well-composed blend that does justice to the legendary raw material used in its making. This has become my most favorite spicy perfume as it offers something that has never been done anywhere else before.

Are you excited to try Crystal Saffron? The fragrance will be available as Eau de Parfum in 6ml for 29 EUR and 100ml for 195 EUR on October, 1st in Europe and later on for the rest of the world.



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