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Fragrance talk

Oajan by Parfums de Marly: A Gourmand with a Middle Eastern Touch

Parfums de Marly, a popular and highly acclaimed niche perfume house, has many amazing fragrances in their portfolio. To this day, Herod, Carlisle, and Delina remain some of their best sellers and rightly so. Another creation that can be added to this distinguished roster would certainly have to be Oajan, part of the Royal Essence collection dedicated to Arabian horse breeds. This perfume was composed by Shyamala Maisondieu, a prolific perfumer who has worked with many fragrance houses, with its debut being in 2013.

Parfums de Marly Oajan Review
Parfums de Marly Oajan Review

Many people remark that Oajan reminds them of the aroma of a freshly baked apple pie and upon application, such an impression truly comes to mind with that fiery burst of cinnamon, sweet, luscious honey, slightly fruity osmanthus, and davana (also known as artemisia). Traditionally used to flavor absinthe, here davana lends its initial sharp green profile to provide an illusion of juicy, somewhat tart apples in combination with the osmanthus. By itself, osmanthus tends to have more of a likeness to apricots. But here in the opening, the resinous facets of benzoin and labdanum also commence with providing tantalizing glimpses of themselves, briefly lending Oajan a touch of imaginary incense floating through the air.

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Still, this is by no means an incense dominant creation. The benzoin only serves to deepen the sweetness of the honey while the labdanum becomes more voluminous and balsamic, almost syrupy, while delicate arpeggios of rich vanilla join in this redolent symphony, further making the fact known that Oajan is indeed a gourmand masterpiece. Here, the use of ambergris further heightens this experience, rendering the perfume as something intensely cozy and warm.

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It is in the dry down that Oajan reaches the pinnacle of its performance, a climax luxuriating in the aura of indulgent vanilla, ambergris, and labdanum sparkling with droplets of fruit juice and the lingering dust of cinnamon. There is also patchouli listed, but I don’t really detect it, with it primarily being more of slightly woody backbone for the vanillic amber tones. But really, the finishing touch of Oajan is the inclusion of tonka bean, which brings to mind associations with marzipan, an almond-based dessert that supposedly has its origins in the Middle East. It is usually prepared for special occasions and celebrations.

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Although tonka bean has almond-like nuances, it sometimes reminds me vaguely of tobacco, so here in the case of Oajan, it brings an image into my consciousness of eating a luxuriously decadent dessert while enjoying a few puffs of tobacco from a hookah pipe.

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Now that cooler autumn weather will be arriving in a few months’ time, Oajan will be the perfect accompaniment for the season. It also works well as a spring fragrance choice. It has quite an intriguing, yet highly pleasing profile, so you’ll be sure to offend no one in your vicinity when wearing it. Because of this, you could even wear it in an office setting, provided that your application is more on the reserved side. In terms of longevity, Oajan lasts the entire day and even more on clothes.

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What can be better than inhaling whiffs of this masterpiece from a sweater during the cooler months? So, if you’re looking for a unique, but likable gourmand fragrance with a touch of Middle Eastern decadence, check out Oajan. Thanks for reading!

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