Salvatore Ferragamo is mostly known for making some of the best Italian leather shoes that money can buy. The brand’s perfume catalog isn’t as well-known, at least to those who aren’t in the fragrance community. Compared to the luxury price of the Ferragamo’s footwear, the brands perfumes are very affordable and quite good.
The Italian shoe giant released Uomo in 2016. Legendary perfumer Alberto Morillas worked on the composition with Aurelien Guichard. This well-loved tiramisu inspired gourmand certainly hit a sweet spot for fragrance lovers around the world. The price, coupled with the powerful scent trail and a powerful throw, allowed it to gain a lot of steam in the fragrance community.
In 2018, Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas released a new flanker, Uomo Signature. Housed in an elegant all black bottle that signifies the darker and richer composition contained within. Would this one live up to the success of the original or would it fail like many flankers in the modern world of perfumery? Let’s explore this scent and answer that question.
A man in a black suit, clothed in a charcoal topcoat with a fedora, walks through the dark alley on a chilly night as moisture hangs clings to your skin from the snow melting on the ground. Steam proceeds from his lips as he reaches his destination, a luxurious Italian cafe in the heart of New York City.
The warm hearth-like glow of the cafe stands as a welcoming abode for explorers who dare venture out in such conditions. A shroud of mystery surrounds the traveler as he escapes my vision into the interior of the eatery. The smell of spiced coffee and his leather briefcase cling to my nostrils in a vain attempt to discover what was so enticing about him. He was just a stranger in the dark, but he won’t leave my thoughts.
Uomo Signature seeks to embody the Italian gentleman, and I think it does it perfectly. The opening blast is sharply spiced pink pepper with a mild dosage of sweet citrus that soon succeeds to the background before bidding adieu. The pink pepper’s piquant rosy nuances combine with cardamom that beckons us to warm up by a fire. We probably should resist the aroma of caramelized tonka beans and roasted coffee, but we just can’t…and we don’t want to. A base of smooth Italian leather softly radiates in the background with a swirl of chocolatey patchouli to round it out.
Salvatore Ferragamo created a flanker that is more memorable than the original. It dials back the tiramisu-laden sweetness and darkens it up, while still keeping it warm and inviting with leather and spices, respectively. It exudes less playfulness than the original, but it’s not all business and no pleasure. It still retains its position as a rich and powerful gourmand, while making the DNA more versatile.
Uomo Signature will work its magic more in the colder weather when its sweet and spicy facets can pierce through the frigid air. The creamy warmth of the scent seems to need that brisk air in order to be inviting, which is what this fragrance tries to do. It wants to lure you in to discover its secrets.
The fragrance is no slouch when it comes to performance either. It doesn’t push out quite as much as the original, but it is still present and very noticeable in the air. This is a fragrance that will last you for an entire night on the town, clocking in at around 8-9 hours of scent on your skin with a beautiful but not overpowering sillage trail.
Alberto Morillas is often referred to as the “king of freshies”, but Uomo Signature proves that his portfolio and ability is far beyond that. He created two magnificent gourmands and successfully made a flanker that is better than the original, which is a rare feat in a world full of trivial releases that hardly deviate from the original. Ferragamo’s offering retains the DNA of Uomo and manages to make it a release that is worth owning, even if you own the original version..
Autumn can’t get here fast enough. I can’t wait to don my chunky sweaters with a beautiful layer of Uomo Signature while enjoying a spicy brew at my local coffee joint. There aren’t many things better in this life, in my opinion. If there are, then I have yet to discover them.